I first heard about Butts: A Backstory when I listened to a re-broadcast of a Radiolab episode from 2022. Best summarized by the show notes: “she [author and Radiolab contributing editor Heather Radke] tells us about a fascinating history she uncovered that takes us from a eugenicist’s attempt in the late 1930s to concretize the most average human, to the rise of the garment industry, and the pain and shame we often feel today when we go looking for a pair of pants that actually fit.” What really hooked me while I listened to the podcast was the discussion of how attempts at standardizing ready-made garment sizing for women came about. Most fashion history books will gloss over this topic—mostly because it has been a gargantuan failure—so I knew a little bit, but not a lot. I immediately ordered a copy of Butts. And if you’re a lover of history, social science, fashion, and/or pop culture—you’ll want to pick it up too.
Before diving into the social history of butts, Radke starts off by trying to answer why we even have a butt. Anatomically, what does it do? Evolutionarily, why did it develop? Physical science out of the way, Radke then moves on to the social science behind butts exploring possible reasons why Western societies think they’re sexy, racial stereotypes, eugenics, the fashion industry, the 1970s and 80s workout craze, drag, twerk, and of course Baby Got Back and Kim Kardashian.
While I was riveted through the whole book—Radke does an excellent job as a storyteller of connecting the dots of seemingly unrelated topics, which makes my inner nerd extremely happy—the sections relating to the fashion industry and fashion history are really fantastic. Fashion history, like all history is written by the winners. Radke is not a fashion historian. And while I have great respect for fashion historians and their work, it was really refreshing to read about these topics from another perspective.
Radke introduces readers to most awkward backsides in fashion history: the bustle. (After devouring this book, I will be going back and making some updates to my Badass Bustles post—stay tuned!). From there, the book continues into the 20th century and the quest that began in earnest the 1930’s to determine the “average” size of women in vain hopes that clothing sizes could be standardized. In a surprise to no one reading this: they can’t—at least not by predicting “average” measurements. As anyone who has tried on a pair of jeans knows, there isn’t really an “average”. And jeans is just where Radke goes next, diving into the world of fit models specifically for jeans.
Butts is a fantastic read. As I said earlier, Radke is an excellent storyteller. The book is very well researched guide to the anatomy and social history of the human butt disguised as fun facts (with a fantastic notes and resources section in the back!) and I truly appreciate the perspective of someone from “the outside” asking the questions, finding the answers, and being what we all are when it comes to our butts: a human with complicated emotions. Definitely pick up a copy. You won’t be disappointed.
Can’t wait for the book? Have a listen:
Radiolab episodes:
“Butt Stuff” (first aired Nov. 11, 2022)
“Man Against Horse” (first aired Dec. 28, 2019)
Author Heather Radke discusses the book with Radiolab host Lulu Miller: recorded livestream from Harvard Book Store.
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Ramblings of a Costume Nerd 